Transom and gussets

After transferring the dimensions from a full-size drawing, which I made some time ago, I have cut the transom from a sheet of 19 mm (3/4″) ply. I have cleaned up the edges with a block-plane and the ROS. The transom is now ready for the forward framing and the doublers.

I have also made and glued the plywood gussets for frames #2 and #7. Given that the gussets are glued with epoxy, I have decided not to use any metal fasteners, i.e. screws. Screws would not contribute to strength against sheer forces because the timber would fail around the screws before the epoxy would give way. The outside edges of the gussets are yet to be buzzed flush using the router.

Frame #4

All the notches for the keel and the bottom battens have been cut into the frames. The plywood panels for frame #4 are glued down and trimmed.



Frame #5

The notches for the keel and the bottom battens have been cut into frame #5. After some experimenting with the router, I decided to cut the notches by hand. Two quick cuts with the panel saw, and cleaning up the notches with chisels and sand paper, took only a few minutes each. I have also cut a couple of large holes on both sides of the frame. These will come in handy for electrics, steering / throttle cables, and the like. The top holes will be completely hidden under the deck and behind the coaming. Similar holes will be in frames #3, #4 and #6.


Strong-back (2)

The notches for the frames in the strong-back are cut. I will have to modify the fwd notches for the plywood gussets in the centre of the frames #2 and #3. The frames fit fairly tight in the keys. The frames rock about 1″ for and aft at the chines, which is enough to sit them dead square in relation to the keel (strong-back).

I have hogged out the curve in the strong-back for the stem. There is still a bit of material to be taken off, once I have made up the stem.




In order to get the bottom battens straight along the frames, I will mark their positions with the frames temporarily fixed to the strong-back (jig). The strong-back is just a very big “saw-horse” from a length of 190 x 45mm (945 x 225 micro-furlongs) and some supports made from 90 x 45mm (3-1/2 x 1-3/4″).

In the pictures, the frames are only clamped onto the jig. There will be keys (slots) cut into the strong-back at each station. The depth of these keys will be different at each station so that the bottoms of the frames will be level for the keel.

The next task will be to build the transom and the stem. The strong-back will need a couple of additional  bits of timber to support the transom. For the stem, the jig needs to be cut back (see the curved pencil line in the first photo). I will not cut this off until I have constructed the stem.



Frames #1 – #6

Frames #1 – #6 have all been cleaned up and all inside edges are rounded over. The uprights on frames #5 and #6 are still about 2″ too long. I will cut those to size later, when the carlings are fitted. This extra length will also come in handy to attach temporary cross-braces when installing the sheer clamps and the topside planking.


Frames #1 and #4

Frame #1 is made up as a bulkhead from 12mm (1/2″) plywood with a cleat from the same material serving as the deck beam #1. There is also a transverse stiffener and reinforcement for the notches of the chine logs. The opening for the inspection port is marked. The photo shows the aft face of the bulkhead. I will have to modify the building jig to accomodate the solid bulkhead.

After shaping #5, the frames #2 – #5 were sanded and the inside edges were rounded over. These frames are now ready for the plywood panels (#4) and gussets. The floor for frame #6 (standing up in the photo) is shaped and ready for attaching the futtocks.