The areas behind the seat-backs, which will be filled with foam, will end up fully enclosed. All surfaces must be coated in epoxy to make things waterproof beforehand. I applied the first coat of epoxy in these parts of the deck. The aft section (storage) between the solid support and the transom will get a layer of glass on the ‘floor’ once the bottom stringer is installed. Although there will be a drain hole in the seat-back, water may pool in there. A glassed floor will be a waterproof ‘tray’ – just in case.
The Dorade boxes are installed, the drain holes are drilled and all fillets have been applied. I installed the boxes before worrying about the sheer clamps – the manual suggests to do it the other way round.
Cutting, fitting and fixing the forward sheer-clamps – only the port side is glued in – was a stressful job. Given that much of the cross section of these timbers will be whittled away to get the right shape for the cabin roof, I have decided that lengths of hard wood (Tasmanian Oak) will be needed to give the necessary strength. This, of course, means that I had to persuade the sticks of 1″ x 3/4″ to follow the curve of the top side panel. The question was, what would give way in the process: the sheer-clamps, the joint between top panel and the rear cabin, the joint between Dorade box and forward deck, or the joint between the top side panels at the bow. Given that the latter is the joint with the least amount of glue, I installed a 2 mm ‘safety wire’ beforehand (see photo). This wire will stay put until the upper breast hook is glued and screwed in. There was a bit of squeaking and creaking, but all the joints proved to be strong enough.